If you've been ripping around the track or the local park lately, you're probably already scouting for some arrma typhon upgrades to see just how much further you can push this buggy. The Typhon is a beast right out of the box, whether you're running the 3S BLX or the 6S version, but there is always a little room to make it faster, tougher, or just plain meaner. It's one of those platforms that responds really well to even the smallest tweaks, and honestly, half the fun of RC life is turning a stock machine into something uniquely yours.
Starting with the rubber
The very first thing most people look at—and for good reason—is the tires. The stock dBoots are decent enough for general use, but they're a bit of a "jack of all trades, master of none." If you're spending most of your time on loose dirt or grass, you'll notice the back end can get a little loose when you're pinned. Swapping to something like Pro-Line Badlands or Trenchers completely changes the personality of the car. It goes from sliding around to literally clawing at the ground.
On the flip side, if you're one of those speed run junkies trying to hit triple digits on asphalt, those off-road tires are just going to balloon and explode. You'll want to look into some belted options like the dBoots Hoons or GRPs. Belted tires don't expand under high RPMs, which keeps your contact patch flat and your car from flipping at 70 mph. It's a night and day difference in stability.
Toughening up the suspension
We all crash. It's part of the game. But when you're sending a Typhon off a six-foot ramp, the stock plastic components sometimes decide they've had enough. One of the most common arrma typhon upgrades for the 3S version is switching out the stock suspension arms for RPM arms. RPM's nylon blend is legendary because it flexes instead of snapping. In a cold-weather bash session where stock plastic gets brittle, these things are a lifesaver.
For the 6S owners, you might want to look at the shock towers. While the stock ones are okay, they can bend during a particularly nasty "lawndart" landing. Upgrading to CNC machined 7075 aluminum towers (like the ones from M2C Racing or even the Arrma EXB parts) adds a level of rigidity that keeps your suspension geometry perfect even after a rough tumble. While you're at it, heavier shock oil can help the buggy feel more planted and less "bouncy" over the small choppy bumps.
Keeping things cool
Heat is the absolute enemy of electronics, especially if you've geared up for more speed. If you touch your motor after a pack and it's hot enough to fry an egg, you need to intervene. Adding a high-speed cooling fan is a cheap and effective way to protect your investment. There are some great twin-fan setups that clamp right onto the motor can.
If you're running the Typhon 3S, the plastic motor mount can sometimes be a weak point because it can flex under high torque, leading to stripped spur gears. Swapping that out for an aluminum motor mount doesn't just help with heat dissipation; it keeps your gear mesh perfectly aligned. It's one of those "set it and forget it" upgrades that saves you a lot of headache down the road.
Drivetrain and power
If you've already mastered the stock speed, the itch for more power is going to hit. For 3S owners, this often means moving toward a 4S-capable ESC or just playing with the gearing. Putting a larger pinion gear on is the fastest way to get more top-end speed, but keep an eye on those temperatures we just talked about.
The differentials are another area where you can really fine-tune the handling. Changing the diff fluid weight can change how the car exits corners. Thicker oil in the center diff will send more power to all four wheels more evenly, which is great for "wheelie popping" fun, while thinner oil might make it more manageable on a tight technical track. It's a messy job, but it's a pro-level tweak that makes the car feel much more refined.
Steering precision
Let's talk about the steering servo. Arrma's stock servos have actually gotten a lot better over the years, but they can still feel a bit slow or "mushy" compared to a high-end aftermarket unit. If you find yourself fighting to keep the car straight or if the wheels don't turn back to center fast enough, a high-torque, metal-gear servo is the answer.
When you pair a fast servo with an aluminum steering rack, the Typhon starts to feel like a surgeon's tool. You point, it goes. There's no delay, no flex, and no wondering if the wheels are actually doing what you told them to do. It's one of those upgrades that doesn't make the car faster on a straightaway, but it definitely makes you faster around a track because you aren't constantly correcting for "slop" in the system.
Protecting the underside
If you bash on gravel or rocky terrain, the bottom of your chassis is going to take a beating. A set of skid plates or a full-length chassis protector can keep your aluminum or composite plate from looking like it went through a blender. Some people even make their own out of Kydex, but there are plenty of bolt-on options that work great. It's a small price to pay to keep the structural integrity of the buggy intact.
Another often overlooked area is the wing. The Typhon wing is a big target during a flip. If yours starts to crack or sag, don't just glue it. Look for a more flexible wing or even the heavy-duty versions meant for the TLR Tuned Typhon. A good wing doesn't just look cool; it actually provides real downforce that keeps the rear end planted when you're hauling down the backstretch.
Why bother with upgrades?
You might be wondering if it's worth dumping more money into a car that already cost a few hundred bucks. The truth is, the Typhon is a fantastic "forever" car. Because parts are so easy to find and the community is so huge, you can keep one of these running for years. Every time you add one of these arrma typhon upgrades, you're basically specializing the car for your specific style of driving.
Maybe you want a dedicated speed runner, or maybe you want a tank that can survive a 20-foot vertical jump. The Typhon can be both, just not at the same time. That's the beauty of the RC hobby. You start with a great base, break a few things, learn how it works, and build it back better than it was before.
Don't feel like you have to do everything at once, though. The best way to go about it is to drive the car until something breaks or until you notice a specific behavior you don't like. If the steering feels slow, fix the servo. If it's flipping over in the grass, change the tires. If you're consistently bottoming out, stiffen the shocks. Taking it one step at a time lets you actually feel the difference each part makes, and it prevents you from spending a fortune on things you might not even need yet.
At the end of the day, the Typhon is all about having fun. Whether it's bone stock or decked out with every aluminum part in the catalog, as long as you're out there kicking up dirt and making some noise, you're doing it right. Just keep an eye on those screw pins and locknuts—vibration is a real thing, and nobody wants to lose a wheel halfway through a speed run!